Expedition 2011

In 2011, we will do two Himalayan expeditions spanning over an 9 month period. During winter (January to March 2011) we will attempt a whole new route on Hidden Peak (8080m). None of the five 8000er peaks of Pakistan has ever been climbed in winter. During summer (June to August 2011) we will attempt a new route on K2 (8611m).

Winter expedition team 2011:

Gerfried Goschl (Austria)

Alex txikon (Spain)

Louis Rousseau (Canada, Québec)

Summer expedition team 2011:

Gerfried Goschl (Austria)

Louis Rousseau (Canada, Québec)

Alex txikon (Spain, Basque country)

Gunther Unterberger (Austria)

The Himalayas, the Karakoram and the fourteen « 8000ers »

Karakoram is a large mountain range spanning the borders between Pakistan, India and China. It is one of the Greater Ranges of Asia located northwest of the actual Himalaya Range. The Karakoram is home to the highest concentration of peaks to be found anywhere on earth, including the famous K2 (8611m), Broad Peak (8047m), Hidden Peak (8080m) and Gasherbrum II (8035m). The range is about 500 km in length and is the most heavily glaciated part of the world outside of the Polar regions Due to its altitude and ruggedness, the Karakoram is less inhabited than parts of the Himalayas and fewer mountaineers are willing to climb into this remote and hostile area. There is a fifth 8000ers in Pakistan called Nanga Parbat. This mountain is not part of the Karakoram range, it is the most western 8000er of the Himalayan range. With three friends of ours, we opened a new route on this mountain in 2009.

2011 winter expedition (Hidden Peak)

Until now, nine 8000ers have been summited during wintertime and all these mountains are located in Himalaya (Nepal and Tibet). None of the Pakistani 8000ers have been climbed during winter. It is a challenge for the new generation of Himalayan mountaineers. The main problem with a Himalayan winter expedition on a 8000ers peak is the combination of extreme altitude and extreme cold temperature. In high altitude, when you are in hypoxic state (less oxygen intake) blood begin to be so thick that there is less blood circulation especially in the body extremities (hand and feet). Frostbite is common. Climbing in high altitude during winter increases this phenomenon because it is colder, it is windier and the days are shorter. During winter 2011 (January to March), we will attempt a new route on Hidden Peak (8080m). This mountain is the eleventh highest summit on earth.

2011 summer expedition (K2 and Gasherbrum I)

K2, The Savage Mountain, is a massive summit of the Karakoram. It is the second highest peak of the world, with an official height of 8 611m. K2 is considered by many as the most difficult and most dangerous mountain, due to extreme weather conditions and highly technical climbing sections. No routes on K2 have been ascended in pure alpine-style. Prior to our new route project on K2, we will climb Gasherbrum I (8080m) to get our acclimatization.